10 – Grand Rue

To the streets

Not long into the walk up to the final destination (the abbey) we arrived in the delightful small town on the lower reaches of the island.  Already bustling with visitors, although not crowded on the day I was there, the Grand Rue or Main Road of Mont St Michel is a charming step back into a time gone by. Not modern, yet not mediaeval either, the street is somewhat like being on the set of some film – a little unreal so that you almost expect to walk beyond the doors of the shops and restaurants to find there’s nothing there. But there is, for these solid buildings have stood for many years as old sepia postcards available will attest, and the restoration of the village since its days of dereliction is complete. It is not unkind to say that today every one of them is aimed squarely at us the visitors, for modern Mont St Michel only has a permanent population of some forty to fifty residents, including the few resident clergy.

How well that aim has been taken. The quality of the goods, services and food on offer is irresistible. Of course you can get the inevitable ‘snowglobe’ and ‘beermug’ variety of souvenir. I’m certain if you looked you’d even find the inevitable cornily sloganned T shirt, but even the most discerning collector of travel memorabilia will be certain to find something to suit their taste perhaps amongst the metal work, the fine needleworked pieces, the Gien earthenware or Limoges porcelain that is uniquely French. Today (perhaps sadly) you can order Mont St Michel souvenirs from these shops in your home via the internet – so, yes the Mont is truly living in the twenty first century.

I have made it a habit not to rush into buying anything on visits to any destination. I find there is something about that first rush of excitement in any new place that often impairs judgement. It is advice that should serve you well. Sometimes your perspective and the memories you may wish to retain of your visit will change along the way. This certainly was the case at Mont St Michel.