19 – Entry gained …

beyond the gate

Once beyond the Barbican there is a notable change in architectural style. The comparative simplicity of mediaeval Romanesque gives way to a gothic style that is considerably more romantic, considerably more decorative and somehow more suited to its glorious purpose. This is not surprising, for (like Rome) Mont St Michel was not built in a day. We had already seen in the town how reconstruction and restoration of the inns and houses had resulted in half timbered construction being replaced with stonewall techniques, and hearing the history of the Abbey – the buildings of the Abbey, churches and the Marvel span a couple of centuries, both in terms of original and replacement construction - I guess the transitions are to be expected. I admire the way the French are able to combine styles of architecture that should not work together but which, in their capable hands, do. Perhaps the best example of this is the Louvre Palace in Paris, where elements embodying all of these styles and then the added modernity of Pei’s contemporary transparent pyramids combine to create a harmonious whole. I know some opinions differ on the success of this, but to me it works.

Still towering above the visitor these embellished walls, with their buttresses and gargoyled drainage systems encourage you to continue that climb to the summit. You cannot help but wonder how the builders managed to raise the heavy stone blocks used up such heights, capping the underlying base rock on which the Marvel and abbey sit. This question would be revealed as the tour progressed.

Again my group had moved out of sight.  It was time once more to catch up.

18 – The Barbican …

At the gate

Continuing with our climb up the Mont, increasingly dwarfed by the looming stone walls, we encounter part of the defensive structure of the buildings known as the barbican. Although the word is of argued linguistic origin (most probably from the Latin barbecana) barbican is a term applied to many castle fortified entrances. Commonly protected by twin turrets or towers as is the case here, this example is part of the fourteenth century defensive system of Mont St Michel.  As is usual the barbican was part of the front line defensive system of the abbey.  Linked by crenulated ramparts any attacker would be vulnerable to repulsion through objects dropped from above as well as artillery fire from the towers. Could the visible pitting of the lichen crusted hard granite stonework be relics of English attempts to breach the gate? Siege methods of attack became increasingly sophisticated as artillery weaponry increased in fire power – both in distance and effect, and most barbicans constructed beyond the fifteenth century (they are a common feature of later French chateaux architecture) were more decorative than practical.  

Entering through the barbican gate there was a notable change in mood amongst the visitors. The Disneyesque commercial character of the town was left behind and the spiritual nature of the Mont began to surface.

I knew then that this visit would be something special.