Onwards … and upwards
Immediately you enter the paths, roads, streets and stairs of Mont St Michel you will be impressed if not overwhelmed by the scale of the place. Stone walls abound, and the fortifications look decidedly impenetrable. Although building on Mont St Michel originated in its use as a place of Christian worship and homage, much of its history has seen it under siege and attack, and the fortifications were increasingly strengthened over the centuries since dedication to its patron in the eighth century. The most notable and intense period of fortification was the Hundred Years War of the fourteenth century. Repeated attacks by the English later in the fifteenth century were withstood, but as monastic life declined so too did Mont St Michel, becoming a prison by the eighteenth century – the Bastille of the sea, and then the island went into gradual decline and decay (it has recovered!!!).
The rock on which the church and abbey are built is one of two in the area, which have over centuries withstood the ravages of time and tide. The larger of the two is St Michel and its foundation rock rose some two hundred and fifty feet above the sands surrounding it. Although appearing to be on flat and sandy land when the tide is out, the mount becomes an island when the waters rush in reaching a tidal height of some forty feet - and the tides of the bay surrounding Mont St Michel are amongst the strongest and most dangerous in the world. It is said that the incoming waters would beat a galloping horse – so be forewarned if you have plans as I did to walk around its base.
Having passed beneath the Overhang Gate, a considerable climb alongside the lower walls leads into the streets of the town, passing towers then along numerous external and internal stairs, along the ramparts ultimately reaching the upper level of the church.
With a deep breath we set out en route to the abbey at the top ……..
